Providence Crags

Providence

Providence (Main Wall)

Providence climbing area is divided into two different sections, North and South. From the Missouri Conservation Providence Access parking lot you can either head left or right on the Katy Trail. Heading right, or South-East, takes you first to Providence (Main Wall), then traveling further south you arrive next at the Providence South Wall, originally named Pocket Wall in the mid 1990's.

Note: Routes are sport lines unless noted!

Stars given for exceptional nature. * = must try

Moving left to right, as view from the bottom looking up.

1. 3rd class Access trail and numerous unmentionable short leads and/or top ropes

2. 5.3 Texas Two Step, trad 45ft (shares bomber rap anchors with Rodeo and available for top rope use)

3. 5.4 My First Rodeo, trad 45ft (bomber rap anchors)

4. 5.7 Calling All Pro, trad R 45ft (shares bomber rap anchors with Rodeo and available for top rope use)

5. 5.8 What's Left mixed 60ft (shares bomber rap anchors with Rodeo and available for top rope use)

6. 5.9 What's Up (shares rap anchors with Prospector)

7. 5.9+ High Banker (shares rap anchors with Prospector)

8. 5.8+ Prospector 70ft

9. 5.8 Prospector Courage Traverse (shares White Courage rap anchors) traverse

10. 5.9 White Gold, R , finish on Prospector (shares rap anchors with Prospector)

11. 5.9 White Courage, PG 65ft

11. 5.10 Both Get Hard On Top 45ft ** (rap off point mid way up Gold Nugget)

12. 5.12+ Gold Nugget 95ft ***

13. 5.12+ Fist of Gold 75ft ** (Climb right after crux, shares rap anchors with Moon Shine)

14. 5.12 Moon Shine 75ft ***

15. Project (not bolted as of 2014)

16. 5.11+ Distillery 75ft *** (aka Distillery's Edge)

17. 5.11- Prohibition, mixed PG 70ft **

18. 5.10 Providence Crack, trad 70ft *

19. 5.12 Slimestone Cowboy 70ft**

20. 5.12 Return To Sender 75ft*

21. 5.10 Next Time Send A Card 75ft **

22. 5.11 Fright Flight 75ft***

23. 5.11+ Edge of Darkness 80ft **

24. 5.10+ Ancient Sea Friends, mixed 70ft*** (use one cam before climbing into the mid stemming section)

25. 5.3 Sport'n Friends 35ft (beginner sport slab sharing rap anchors with Ass-standing )

26. 5.8 Ass-standing 30ft (Start on Bootlegger, follow the thin slab crack to rap anchors, stop at the top of the slab)

27. 5.11+ Bootlegger, mixed 70ft ** (same start as Ass-standing then use of one cam at flake before roof)

28. 5.12- Bootlegger Direct 70ft (by pass flake and short roof traverse)

29. 5.11 Regurgitated Bird 60ft *

30. 5.11 Regurgitated Bird Direct 55ft (top rope)

31. 5.7 Black'n Fuzzy Feel'n, trad 45ft (splitter crack heads up right hiding behind the cedars, no rap anchors)

32. 3rd Class South Side Access Trail

Providence South (Pocket Wall)

Providence climbing area is divided into two different sections, North and South. From the Missouri Conservation Providence Access parking lot you can either head left or right on the Katy Trail. Heading right, or South-East, takes you first to Providence (Main Wall), then traveling further south you arrive next at the Providence South Wall, originally named Pocket Wall in the mid 1990's.

Note: Routes are sport lines unless noted!

Stars given for exceptional nature. * = must try

Moving left to right, as view from the bottom looking up.

1. 5.11 Baboon 60ft *** (aka Goats Beard)

Over 30 more routes are available in the Providence South area!

Please let me know if you have any updates about current route conditions or routes you have established and would like to share the details with the rest of the guide following climbing crowds. Thanks in advance!

Providence North

Providence climbing area is divided into three different sections: Main Wall, North and South. The Providence North Section is then divided into further sub-areas, including: The Primal Wall, The Spire Area, Battress Area, Turtle Wall, etc. Please respect private property.